This tropical Bali dream house, located in Padanggalak, 3 miles north of Sanur, is what my husband Mel and I like to call our 'third child' (we also have 2 boys). Building on our cross-cultural marriage, we chose to blend the open-air feel and tropical materials of Mel's native Indonesia with the exposed wood, open floor plan, and cathedral ceilings of the old barns of my native rural Massachusetts.
Before building, we'd spent years renting houses in Bali, so we were very clear what we did not want. We wanted to avoid the sort of villa you see all over the island that is built to look romantic - open-air, no doors, thatched roofed - but is in fact very impractical. Coming from New England where the winters are so rough, I'd always thought of the tropics as gentle, but those houses taught me that a tropical climate has its own hazards: bugs, dust, mosquitoes, ants, mold, gecko's, smoke from burning fields, and a very fast pace of decay. In the open houses, we couldn't keep nature out because there was no way to close in the space. Mosquitoes were abundant, and the thatch would shed, and the geckos living in the thatch would contribute their own fall-out. We'd essentially spend a good part of each day just sweeping up!
Armed with a concept and a list of things to avoid, we chose Balinese architect Ketut Arthana. Internationally recognized, Ketut has a reputation for optimizing and managing space. He instantly understood what we wanted. He set the ceilings high, like a barn's, but added variety to the roof-line by slightly lowering the kitchen roof and using the typically Balinese cross-hatched exposed rafters. He wasn't afraid to recommend tile over thatch for its strength, quality and ease of maintenance, and we found that by lining the under-side of the tile with basket-colored woven rattan, we were able to achieve the same soft, natural effect from inside as you get with thatch, but without the problems. Ketut placed giant sliding glass doors and windows around the perimeters of the entire house, giving the space light and ventilation during the day and an open-air feel, but with the option of shutting out the bugs, wind, water and dust at night and during storms. Above these doors, Ketut added a ring of slim rectangular windows for ventilation and style.
Once complete, Ketut handed the drawings over and we took charge.Mel oversaw the building process, and I made the interior design decisions. I was never focused on making the house fit into a category (rustic, modern, contemporary…). I just did what I found beautiful. The result is a huge mix of influences, combining primitive and modern, old and new, raw and finished. I brought my love of Mexican color into my paint choices, and my appreciation for Shaker simplicity into my choice of old, strong, and simple wood furniture.
Color is a major theme. The main living space has a soft cream terrazzo floor contrasting with two bold papaya-orange walls and another sailor blue wall. The ventilation windows hold circular coins of colored glass framed in teak, giving a warmth and funky flare to the entire space.The kitchen and bedroom floors are richly colored in traditional Dutch-style cement tiles. More color flows through the deep-set, vertical, and whimsically stained-glass windows along the stairs.
In contrast to the bright colors, raw materials ground the house in the natural and neutral, creating what architect Yew Kwan famously described as "high-style primitive." Raw teak trees frame the kitchen space and act as pillars on the terrace; Y-shaped stripped coffee balusters and teak banisters form the railings along the stairs and balcony; marble stones and large plates of slate form a mosaic on the master bathroom wall; and worn gray river stones provide drainage where house meets land.
Outside, the property is ringed with a mustard-yellow fence overflowing with pink, purple and yellow bougainvillea. Verdant gardens border the walls, offering the eye tropical richness. A rice-terraced-shaped pool fills one corner, while lush mango & Frangipani trees create umbrellas against the sun. Ocean breezes blow in from the east, cooling the land and house, even in the hottest season.
"The house has a warmth and grace and artistry to it, but it is also a very livable house, peaceful and soothing, also fabulous for entertaining, and very convenient to the beach, stores and restaurants in Sanur, to Denpasar and to the culture and yoga in Ubud," says one renter. "Many happy memories were made in that house," he continued, "and we want to return again if we can."
This property is located in a village that is set away from the bustle of south Bali, while still being convenient to many attractions. We can easily help you to hire a car and driver, or if you wish to save money, there is excellent and reliable 24-hr taxi service directly from the house. Taxis come within 10 minutes of calling them, and can take you easily to Sanur or Kuta or Ubud.
The spectacular white-sand beach in Sanur is about a 10 minute drive. This beach goes for several miles. There are lots of parts to the beach, some local, some more touristy, and plenty of places to eat and shop and hang out. People go kitesurfing, kayaking, sailing, glass-bottom-boating, and there are other water sports as well. And gazebo's at the end of stone piers that go out in the water where you can picnic or get massages or manicures. The waves are small as the beach is protected by a reef, so it is great and safe for kids. Sanur beach is not crowded compared to the beaches further south (Kuta, Seminyak). Sanur has plenty of great restaurants also. And you can rent bikes for the day and bike along the bike-path which goes along the beach. Very fun and cheap and lovely. Our house is in a great location as it is not far from Sanur, but also not too far from Ubud (with its cultural riches and yoga retreats), Denpasar (with its convenient travel agencies, department stores and government offices) or east Bali (with its adventurous escapes to beaches, weaving villages and fishing towns).